This topic contains 2 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by Erin 7 years, 2 months ago. First of all I will note that I am a complete automotive amateur, but working to learn more all the time. I am currently unemployed so that kind of money is hard to come by right now. Here is my question. I believe this car has a non-interference engine Model: 1MZ-FE so if the timing belt were to fail, no damage would occur to the engine, I would just need to tow it somewhere and have the timing belt replaced.
Is this correct? Is there any other issues I should be worried about if I postpone and the belt fails? Could I be looking at even high repair costs in that event? Or more serious damage to the engine? As far as waiting until it breaks, i find it a lot easier on the mechanics and on the car to just replace the part while intact :p. BUT if you are willing to risk it to do the timing belt on your own, more power to you!
What you could do is really study how to do this job. Grind a slight point on the bolt and install it only hand-tight. Relieve the tension on the timing belt by loosening the timing belt idler pulley bolt and pulley, and then remove the timing belt.
There are two styles of tensioners used on the V6s — one is sealed, while the other has a service bolt on the backside. If you have a tensioner with the service bolt, clamp it in the vise by one of the mounting ears with the service bolt facing up. Remove the service bolt and, using a flat-bladed screwdriver in the hole, turn the screwdriver clockwise to retract the tensioner to install the U-shape stopper retaining tool see Photo Take care to prevent spilling the oil.
Note: If either style of tensioner shows any signs of leakage, it should be replaced. Neither one is very expensive and always keep in mind that the client is expecting this job to hold up for , miles.
Advertisement With the belt removed, you can now remove the fasteners and replace the water pump. Either temporarily install the tube or find a plug that will do the job. When it comes time to install the timing belt, reinstall the tensioner with the pin or stopper tool in place, loosely install the idler pulley using thread locker, and then install the timing belt in a counterclockwise direction following this sequence: Crankshaft pulley, idler pulley, front camshaft pulley, water pump pulley, rear camshaft pulley and tension adjust pulley.
Advertisement Note: Be sure the crankshaft and camshaft pulleys remained aligned with the marks on the back cover. To aid in this process, we use spring-loaded clips to hold the belts on the pulleys as the belt is routed. With the belt in place, tighten the idler pulley bolt to 38 ft. Next, remove the retaining tool or pin from the auto-tensioner.
Install the engine mount bracket to the front of engine. If you have a timing belt guide plate, install it with the concave surface facing out. Install the lower cover and crankshaft pulley. Lubricate the pulley bolt and tighten to the proper torque; most go to ft. Using the pulley bolt, rotate the engine by hand for a couple of revolutions, always in the proper direction of rotation.
In this case, that would be clockwise. If all is well, finish by installing the covers and other parts removed on disassembly. This problem is often traced to the O-ring on the removed line allowing air to enter the system. Depending on the condition of the fluid, it may be a good time to change the power steering fluid, and be sure that the screen in the bottom of the reservoir is clear while you are there. At the very least, an oil change should be recommended.
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